C
ClownWorld2023
Arcanist
- Sep 18, 2023
- 449
If you want to buy this regulator, buy it, that's the right regulator.I buy the regulator
I feel like a broken record repeating what GasMonkey mentioned +10 times. Just search the word negative or positive pressure and see GasMonkey's posts, He repeated the same thing several times and now I'm repeating the same thing again. With on-demand systems(SCBA/SCUBA), how much gas you will consume depends entirely on your breathing rate before and after unconsciousness and when you stop breathing.With negative pressure, when your breathing(inhalation)stops, you don't create a negative pressure inside the mask, and as a result, gas consumption is zero. With positive pressure, when your breathing(inhalation)stops, the positive pressure inside the mask will no longer decrease, that's why we say on-demand system.Even if you assume that Slovakguy's cylinder was 6L/200bar, he consumed 678 liters of gas, a 5L/200bar is 1000L of gas.I use nitrogen and the GasMonkeys method, with Lung Demand Valve and SCBA!
My nitrogen bottle has 5 liters at 200 bar. How long will the contents last, assuming continuous breathing?
You should silence the low pressure whistle.warn due to the high pressure
So if my tank is 137 bar, what must the outlet pressure of the regulator be?Not sure if this is what ur looking for but your regulator must be able to support the cylinder's working pressure. For examply, if you're cylinder operates at 200bar (2216psi) and your regulator is desgined for 150bar (2015psi), you'll need to bleed out some of the gas b4 using it with the regulator.
The regulator has to support a pressure equal or higher then 137 bar. That seems to be the general rule of thumb for all inert gas methods. A higher cylinder pressure can damage equipement, but lower pressure can't. If you think logically, the pressure will always go down in the cylinder while using gas. The second thing you have to look at are the connection sizes which have to match between equipement and cylinder.So if my tank is 137 bar, what must the outlet pressure of the regulator be?
CorrectCO2 buildup not relevant for EEBD hood at all, because it's purged through the exhale valve?
No, the hood's quite durable. Just dont crumple it in storageDo I need to worry about stuff like the visor mask not sealing properly, and leaking exhaled air into the hood?
137 or above but dont worry about this. If your regulator is designed for its respective gas, it'll work. Otherwise welders would be out of jobsSo if my tank is 137 bar, what must the outlet pressure of the regulator be?
Never.Will that be a problem?
Y.The regulator connects directly to the nitrogen tank?
What is the right size of an exit bag?
I have to sizes of oven bags - 43x45 cm, which is too small for me, and 55x60 cm, which is too big.
What is your opininion? Which size do you have?
Does anyone know good places to get the Drager hood?
Thanks for information.
For me seems 43x55 cm small, maybe because my seam is broad.
55x60 gives a good space for nose and mouth.
Will you use this bag for your ctb?
Did you already made a "blackout tesr"?
It's not, it's a argon reg that I'd be using with a nitrogen tank. Vendor claims you can't use the reg for nitrogen, but as far as I know you canCorrect
No, the hood's quite durable. Just dont crumple it in storage
137 or above but dont worry about this. If your regulator is designed for its respective gas, it'll work. Otherwise welders would be out of jobs
Is for you the exit bag too unsecure?
Do you know if the 3M Scott male coupler is the same as Dräger PSS? (And yes I know I can cut it off and use a barb fitting on my regulator instead, or cut it off and replace the male coupler.)I don't recommend the Drager PSS rescue hood anymore.Two people bought it and have problems with the hood's exhalation valve.From now on, only use hoods that have an internal mask like the Chinese(used by EM's customers and Vizzy and bennydiazapine) or Drager Saver CF or 3M Scott.
That's compatible with the 3M Scott.my female coupler for my regulator is a Rectus
The plug of those two hoods are not the same, the Drager's plug is CEJN 344 and the 3M Scott's plug is CEJN 340 and both of them are compatible with the Rectus 95KS coupler.if the 3M Scott male coupler is the same as Dräger PSS?
I'm sorry, but I'm confused what you mean. CEJN 340 = DN 6.2mm, CEJN 344 = DN 7.4mmThat's compatible with the 3M Scott.
The plug of those two hoods are not the same, the Drager's plug is CEJN 344 and the 3M Scott's plug is CEJN 340 and both of them are compatible with the Rectus 95KS coupler.
There is no problem using a 7.4mm coupler with that plug.Two people used it and had no problems.I'm sorry, but I'm confused what you mean. CEJN 340 = DN 6.2mm, CEJN 344 = DN 7.4mm
The DN for Rectus 95KS coupler is 7.4mm (Or is the difference between them the bore?)
Never do that.The reason you buy that hood is that you don't need to modify the hose. if you want to modify the hose, there are cheaper hoods to buy. You just need a Rectus 95KS (If you are in Europe , with G1/4 or G3/8 thread depends on the outlet thread of your reg).Of course this is not a problem, since I can just replace the hose barb with a Rectus 95SSTF*DIA*
Because of its design.still curious how both 340 and 344 could fit 95KS.
If 6.2mm and 7.4mm is the nominal flow diameter, and the male exterior dimensions is the same, then they will most likely be interchangeable yes. Otherwise they will NOT, and it would be insanely stupid to not replace the barb fitting (which isn't rocket science)There is no problem using a 7.4mm coupler with that plug.Two people used it and had no problems.
Never do that.The reason you buy that hood is that you don't need to modify the hose. if you want to modify the hose, there are cheaper hoods to buy. You just need a Rectus 95KS (If you are in Europe , with G1/4 or G3/8 thread depends on the outlet thread of your reg).
Because of its design.
Yes that's the nominal diameter (ID) , aslo known as the basic flow size.If 6.2mm and 7.4mm is the nominal flow diameter
The Rectus 95KS acts as a universal socket for both plugs.and the male exterior dimensions is the same, then they will most likely be interchangeable yes. Otherwise they will NOT
You are confusing concepts, there's no need for this or this or this or this, you just need this and that's it.and it would be insanely stupid to not replace the barb fitting (which isn't rocket science)
I never said that modifying the hose (using teflon tape for NPT/BSPT connections, hose clamps, barbed fittings...etc) is bad , In fact, I have said several times in the past that there is nothing wrong with using them because some people think that using these things just adds another point of failure but what you are constantly thinking about is nonsense, you want to modify a plug and play setup and that would be insanely stupid, the hose is long enough and has a ready to use plug. Again, you just need to connect the coupler's thread to the reg's outlet and then connect the hood's plug like this to it and that's it , I can't explain it simpler than that. But as I said before, do whatever gives you peace of mind , higher flow rates AKA 40LPM, bigger cylinders, with or without barbed fittings, with or without couplers..etc , when and how you want to CTB is not my concern and business.skipping the coupler and just use the correct size hose barb instead is certainly not a bad alternative. I have never ever had a connection like that leaking with any kinds of gas
Another mental gymnastics, you only want to use it once and you don't even need to think about it leaking even if it's a cheap and low quality coupler.Sure I never had a CEJN coupler (For compressed air, never used for gas) leaking either when NEW, but a lot of old ones that started to leak. But it feels like it just adds one more thing that could potentially cause problems, even though it's very unlikely.