Greenberg
nitrogenexit.blogspot.com
- Jun 28, 2020
- 1,063
Just bear in mind with higher flow rates, you may feel dryness in your mucous membranes because of the rapid movement of gas. Best, G
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I'm not looking for an argon regulator. I looked in the description and it says "For use with 100% Argon and Argon/CO2 mixed gasses." Why does it make life easier to stick with a nitrogen regulator? I thought Tired Horse said using an argon regulator wouldn't matter. I just can't find a nitrogen one that has lpm and a hose barb on it. Is it that you have to recalculate the lpm meter?
For reference, this is what I'm referring to what Tired Horse said: "Harbor Freight Tools offers a cheap CO2/Ar regulator (it also works for N2) with a flowmeter that shows flow in both Cfh and Lpm and goes high enough for our purposes. This is what I have."
I also have some other questions.
How do you tell how full a cylinder is by looking at the pressure gauge? Do I go by the service pressure? So if my 40 cu ft nitrogen cylinder has a service pressure of 2015 psi, that means the gauge should read 2015 psi if it's full, half of that if it's half full, a quarter of that if it's quarter full, and so on? I'm also confused about the difference between the service pressure and the test pressure. Which one do I go by? Because the test pressure is 3000 psi.
Is it necessary to use a hose clip/clamp?
Should I be skeptical of the service/test pressure values given by these two websites because they look like they are offering the exact same product but the service/test pressures they give differ from each other:
beveragelements.com
You have to look under "Specifications" for the first website and "Additional Information" for the second website for the service/test pressures. The first says 2524 psi/3365 psi and the second says 2015 psi/3000 psi.
For reference, this is what I'm referring to what Tired Horse said: "Harbor Freight Tools offers a cheap CO2/Ar regulator (it also works for N2) with a flowmeter that shows flow in both Cfh and Lpm and goes high enough for our purposes. This is what I have."
I also have some other questions.
How do you tell how full a cylinder is by looking at the pressure gauge? Do I go by the service pressure? So if my 40 cu ft nitrogen cylinder has a service pressure of 2015 psi, that means the gauge should read 2015 psi if it's full, half of that if it's half full, a quarter of that if it's quarter full, and so on? I'm also confused about the difference between the service pressure and the test pressure. Which one do I go by? Because the test pressure is 3000 psi.
Is it necessary to use a hose clip/clamp?
Should I be skeptical of the service/test pressure values given by these two websites because they look like they are offering the exact same product but the service/test pressures they give differ from each other:
New 40 cuft Steel Nitrogen Cylinder | Gas Cylinder Source
New 40 cu ft steel nitrogen cylinder with CGA580 valve. Solid, reliable nitrogen tank ready for use in beverage, HVAC, and industrial applications.
gascylindersource.com
40 cu ft Nitrogen Cylinder - Steel - New | Beverage Elements
New 40 cu ft nitrogen cylinder in steel. Perfect for beer mix/G-mix use. Great mid-capacity nitrogen cylinder that delivers exceptionally fresh beverages.
beveragelements.com
You have to look under "Specifications" for the first website and "Additional Information" for the second website for the service/test pressures. The first says 2524 psi/3365 psi and the second says 2015 psi/3000 psi.
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Greenberg
nitrogenexit.blogspot.com
- Jun 28, 2020
- 1,063
A steel cylinder is considerably heavier than an aluminum one. You may wish to consider the latter. Gas cylinders are standardized so do not worry too much about the exact specs. As long as it can withstand 3000 psi, you are okay. Incidentally, the pressure gauge on the regulator tells you how much gas is left within the cylinder.I'm not looking for an argon regulator. I looked in the description and it says "For use with 100% Argon and Argon/CO2 mixed gasses." Why does it make life easier to stick with a nitrogen regulator? I thought Tired Horse said using an argon regulator wouldn't matter. I just can't find a nitrogen one that has lpm and a hose barb on it. Is it that you have to recalculate the lpm meter?
For reference, this is what I'm referring to what Tired Horse said: "Harbor Freight Tools offers a cheap CO2/Ar regulator (it also works for N2) with a flowmeter that shows flow in both Cfh and Lpm and goes high enough for our purposes. This is what I have."
I also have some other questions.
How do you tell how full a cylinder is by looking at the pressure gauge? Do I go by the service pressure? So if my 40 cu ft nitrogen cylinder has a service pressure of 2015 psi, that means the gauge should read 2015 psi if it's full, half of that if it's half full, a quarter of that if it's quarter full, and so on? I'm also confused about the difference between the service pressure and the test pressure. Which one do I go by? Because the test pressure is 3000 psi.
Is it necessary to use a hose clip/clamp?
Should I be skeptical of the service/test pressure values given by these two websites because they look like they are offering the exact same product but the service/test pressures they give differ from each other:
New 40 cuft Steel Nitrogen Cylinder | Gas Cylinder Source
New 40 cu ft steel nitrogen cylinder with CGA580 valve. Solid, reliable nitrogen tank ready for use in beverage, HVAC, and industrial applications.gascylindersource.com
40 cu ft Nitrogen Cylinder - Steel - New | Beverage Elements
New 40 cu ft nitrogen cylinder in steel. Perfect for beer mix/G-mix use. Great mid-capacity nitrogen cylinder that delivers exceptionally fresh beverages.
You have to look under "Specifications" for the first website and "Additional Information" for the second website for the service/test pressures. The first says 2524 psi/3365 psi and the second says 2015 psi/3000 psi.
A nitrogen flow regulator is preferred over an argon one as it is calibrated for nitrogen. If you use an argon regulator, you would need to perform a calculation and make the adjustment. If you insist on a nitrogen flow regulator in lpm with a hose barb, I suggest you review my blog. Be forewarned they are considerably more expensive. Best, G
Do you have a regulator you would recommend?
If I do not get one in lpm, how would I be able to set it to 20 lpm? I see flow gauges that come in psi, and I do not understand how psi can be converted to lpm.
If I do not get one with a hose barb, would I need to buy a hose barb for it? I do not understand how to connect the hose otherwise.
If I simply switch my gas to argon instead of nitrogen, would that solve my problem?
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Rabhen
Isolated Loner
- Dec 17, 2021
- 147
It seems this method is the same as the Sarco suicide pod but the discount DIY version. I would like to see a little more about the differences between how A and N2 'feel' to the person experiencing the gas. Personally, I have had enough pain, trauma and difficulty in life and am looking for a peaceful and comforting death.
Yes, thanx, this explains N2 experience quite well, is the A experience relatively the same? I am not sure which gas I will choose to obtain though both are easily available where I am, so the main deciding factor would be the experience, ...unless the experience is the same, then the cheapskate in me will make price the deciding factor, wahwahwah. Really? Cheap in life cheap in death too you say? ONLY if the experience is the same, but yes, living as a homeless person for two thirds of my life as made me a superior cheapskate.
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Let me tell you about this method. It is not as easy as it sounds. Not by any stretch.
I had bought a 40 cubic inch tank of pure nitrogen. (Cost me $200). About half the size you see on the back of forklifts that use propane.
Then you have to buy a regulator. I have absolutely no knowledge of how regulators work. That was another $70. Then you have to buy the right size hosing which I thought I did according to everything I read. Well it wasn't. I had to buy adapters to fit on the nozzle on the regulator. I had a hell of a time trying to get the hosing to fit over the correct adapter. In fact I think I may have ended up buying different size hosing.
IThen there are guages on the top of the regulator that I had no idea what they meant except I know what psi was. I never welded at all so I didn't know which one to turn on before I opened the valve.
I did some research so I think I now have it right but am still not certain.
I know this stuff is common knowledge to alot of ppl but not to me. I never used anything of the sort before.
Then there are the large frozen turkey bags which were fine but I could not and still don't understand how to sew a draw string around the bottom of the bag since they don't come with one. Nor how to put the whole in the bag for the hose so it didn't leak.
I ended up using large thick rubber band that I tried to put over the bag and around my neck, prior to inserting the hose in thru the bottom while pushing all the oxygen out.
Mind you I was shaking and sweating like a dog shitting a peach stone the whole time.
So I finally believe I had it right. I turn on the valve. So much nitrogen came thru the hose so fast and so loud it blew the bag off of my head. I almost had a heart attack. The whole contraption still sits in my closet.
I tried once more later at another time which seemed to be working but there is still something I'm not doing right.
Moral of the story, no matter how easy it may sound, for ppl that have no knowledge of how tanks and regulators work I can assure you it is not, or I wouldn't be telling you about it.
Nor do I. She makes it look so easy but I can attest to you it is not.
Read my post about what happened in my attempt.
I had bought a 40 cubic inch tank of pure nitrogen. (Cost me $200). About half the size you see on the back of forklifts that use propane.
Then you have to buy a regulator. I have absolutely no knowledge of how regulators work. That was another $70. Then you have to buy the right size hosing which I thought I did according to everything I read. Well it wasn't. I had to buy adapters to fit on the nozzle on the regulator. I had a hell of a time trying to get the hosing to fit over the correct adapter. In fact I think I may have ended up buying different size hosing.
IThen there are guages on the top of the regulator that I had no idea what they meant except I know what psi was. I never welded at all so I didn't know which one to turn on before I opened the valve.
I did some research so I think I now have it right but am still not certain.
I know this stuff is common knowledge to alot of ppl but not to me. I never used anything of the sort before.
Then there are the large frozen turkey bags which were fine but I could not and still don't understand how to sew a draw string around the bottom of the bag since they don't come with one. Nor how to put the whole in the bag for the hose so it didn't leak.
I ended up using large thick rubber band that I tried to put over the bag and around my neck, prior to inserting the hose in thru the bottom while pushing all the oxygen out.
Mind you I was shaking and sweating like a dog shitting a peach stone the whole time.
So I finally believe I had it right. I turn on the valve. So much nitrogen came thru the hose so fast and so loud it blew the bag off of my head. I almost had a heart attack. The whole contraption still sits in my closet.
I tried once more later at another time which seemed to be working but there is still something I'm not doing right.
Moral of the story, no matter how easy it may sound, for ppl that have no knowledge of how tanks and regulators work I can assure you it is not, or I wouldn't be telling you about it.
Nor do I. She makes it look so easy but I can attest to you it is not.
Read my post about what happened in my attempt.
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It's definitely a method that you need to research beforehand, fortunately we have YouTube and this website. 
Ballsy of you also to handle a 60 cf gas cylinder without looking into it first.
Ballsy of you also to handle a 60 cf gas cylinder without looking into it first.That is my point. I did review, read, watch everything, for about a month prior. I thought I had it down pat. No, it is still not as easy as it appears. Not even close.It's definitely a method that you need to research beforehand, fortunately we have YouTube and this website.
I actually bought the wrong kind of nitrogen tank as well. It was beer gas nitrogen. At that point I wasn't about to mess around getting the wrong kind again. Actually it may be 40 cubic feet. It's about half the size of canisters that are on the back of forklifts.It's definitely a method that you need to research beforehand, fortunately we have YouTube and this website.
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Maybe experimenting with a smaller canister would have helped more? (I also learn better when I can physically interact with the subject)
As for the video, what part after 1:18 exactly? All of it?
That is the problem I had. I read and researched this Guage pressure ,psi, lpm and I thought I be easy. It is not. Especially if you have no experience ever using guages for tanks.
I am lost at that point as well. Tbh, I couldn't afford to buy and experiment with smaller tanks. I bought a small one at first but it was the beer gas nitrogen that isn't the kind I thought. Had I known it would have been so difficult I may have went with a smaller tank but they all used guages and regulators so I think I would have had the same problem.
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I'll try but I am terrible at explaining, I thought the video showed it well. At 1 18 you fold the open side of the bag outwards, and you tape it. Then you make a small hole (only in the outer layer) to run the elastic through. Pull it all the way around, back through the hole and then the 2 ends go into the cord lock.
There actually is another video about making the bag but with an Asian guy, it might have been a better one. I'll see if I can find the link.
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I beg to differ. Yes it really is. I researched, read and watched videos. Everything has to exactly perfect which we all know is seldom the case. I tried and failed the first time because I didn't understand how to read the guages. The second time there was something not exactly right with the sealing part.
Exactly like he said, there is alot of equipment to buy and alot of preparation. Making sure the hoses fit on the right adapter. Then there is the part of laying there giving you time to think.
I think your only problem is that you don't have a regulator that you can set at lpm. The first regulator I bought was only PSI/bar. Impossible to set LPM on that. Then I bought a regulator from EM, and I'm not happy that there's no 20 lpm (only 15 or 25) it will do. The guy sent the wrong hose barb, it was supposed to be a female hose barb but he sent a male one so I had to buy a hosebarb myself but other than that idk, it's pretty straightforward. I made my bag out of a strong black garbage bag and just some elastic from the supermarket and duct tape. I tried the turkey bags with the micropore tape and it was a disaster. Bag is very thin and rips, the micropore tape doesn't stick for shit. My exit bag is pretty sturdy I reckon.
I assume lpi means liters per inch? If that's the case I have no idea what liters = psi. There are two regulators on it.. I
admit I am honestly dumb af when it comes to conversions and what valve was for which one. I never used a cylinder, tank or anything like that so it was all Greek to me.
As far as the turkey bad or garbage bag I was wondering if put a big tight rubber band over my head, then push the air out and then stick the hose up under the rubber band would work?
I know I still don't have the settings set correctly on the gauges. If I turn the valve on ever so slightly, just a Crack the Nitrogen comes out so fast. So I know something is fucked up with the settings, valves, gauges, etc.
I would prolly just use the easy way anyway. 45 colt I have.
LPM (or lpm) is litres per minute. No, don't use a rubber band. You need a small space between the bag and your neck for the gas to escape through otherwise your bag is going to pop.
If you post a picture of your regulator I can tell you what's what.
You can explain it but I'll still probably be confused on how to use it
Attachments
The circle on the right shows the pressure of the gas inside the tank, the circle on the left shows the pressure of the gas coming out. When you turn the big handle it adjusts the pressure of the gas coming out. Your regulator does not indicate litres per minute so there's no way for you to have a precise flow rate like 15 litres per minute or whatever. However, as far as I know @crushed innocence ctb with a regulator like yours and she said she wasn't going to measure litres per minute, just let it run at a stream that wasn't too strong.
Btw, PSI stands for pounds per square inch. It's a measurement of pressure.
What exactly are you confused about? The pressure of the tank is super high and dsngerous, you need a regulator to lower the pressure so you can actually use the gas. That's it. That's all the regulator does, converts the super high pressure coming out of the tank into a usable lower pressure.
I know that. It was about setting should the needle go to on which one to and which one do I turn on and off first.
You can only control the needle on the left side by turning the big tap/knob. The one on the right just shows you how much pressure/gas is left in the cylinder.
How can you tell if a gas cylinder is full (what specific psi will the regulator read)? Do you go by the service or the test pressure of the cylinder, and what is the difference between the two?
If it's supposed to read 3000 psi when full let's say, then does that mean 1500 psi would be half full, 2000 psi would be 2/3 full, etc.? Does it work like that?
I'm not sure, I'd like to know too actually. I assumed that's how it works but I don't know.
Also, what can you do if your gauge doesn't read high enough (psi of a full tank is over 3000 psi, but your gauge only reads to 3000 psi)? Does that mean you can only tell how full the cylinder is when it falls below 3000 psi? In which case, if you have a cylinder that is 4000 psi when full let's say (I know that number is high), when the gauge that doesn't read high enough says "2000 psi", can you trust that the gauge is telling you it's half full?
Gonna ask my nearest Airgas store then.
Is it true that Airgas only sells you gas if you have a truck?
Gonna ask my nearest Airgas store then.
Is it true that Airgas only sells you gas if you have a truck?
If your regulator is less PSI than what it says on the tank it will be dangerous to use it. Make sure your regulator is made for the pressure of the tank. Eg don't use a regulator which is max 2000 psi on a tank that is 3000 psi.
Should I go by service pressure or test pressure of the cylinder in determining this?
Ok so got everything set up. Got the tank, the regulator, exit bag attached to regulator with oxygen tubing and hose clamp. Bag fills up so that's good.
But fuck...I can't stop worrying about the 15lpm. The damn regulator I got from EM only does 15 or 25. I really wanted it at 20 to be safe. After all the recent exit bag discussions over the last few months I can't get the doubt and anxiety out of my head about 15lpm not being enough. Especially because I can't really test for leaks so there's always a possibility I'm getting a little less than 15lpm flowing into the bag.
What will happen if the flowrate is not high enough after I pull the prefilled bag down? Does it mean I'll never pass out because it won't be flushing the oxygen that sneaks in through the neck fast enough? This is my main fear that 15lpm or just under won't be enough to get the oxygen out and I'll just be brain damaged.
I also don't know what to do with my hands. I'm combining this with hanging (hoping to pass out and passively hang). Thought of cuffing my hands behind my back but what if something's not right with the bag and I need to take it off and make adjustments?
Then I thought of cuffing my hands at the front but then there's a risk of still being able to pull off the bag this way after losing consciousness and then that's brain damage too? I thought once you go unconscious you couldn't co-ordinate or be aware enough to deliberately take the bag off but then there are stories of people waking up with the bags off their heads. I don't know what to think. Thought this would be more straightforward :(
But fuck...I can't stop worrying about the 15lpm. The damn regulator I got from EM only does 15 or 25. I really wanted it at 20 to be safe. After all the recent exit bag discussions over the last few months I can't get the doubt and anxiety out of my head about 15lpm not being enough. Especially because I can't really test for leaks so there's always a possibility I'm getting a little less than 15lpm flowing into the bag.
What will happen if the flowrate is not high enough after I pull the prefilled bag down? Does it mean I'll never pass out because it won't be flushing the oxygen that sneaks in through the neck fast enough? This is my main fear that 15lpm or just under won't be enough to get the oxygen out and I'll just be brain damaged.
I also don't know what to do with my hands. I'm combining this with hanging (hoping to pass out and passively hang). Thought of cuffing my hands behind my back but what if something's not right with the bag and I need to take it off and make adjustments?
Then I thought of cuffing my hands at the front but then there's a risk of still being able to pull off the bag this way after losing consciousness and then that's brain damage too? I thought once you go unconscious you couldn't co-ordinate or be aware enough to deliberately take the bag off but then there are stories of people waking up with the bags off their heads. I don't know what to think. Thought this would be more straightforward :(
Greenberg
nitrogenexit.blogspot.com
- Jun 28, 2020
- 1,063
Looks like FromGermany has really done a number on you. Like I said before: 15lpm is the right flow rate; 20lpm is excessive. If you do not believe me then find a flow regulator which offers 20lpm. Honestly, you should stop second-guessing yourself. This is a proven and established method.
If you insist to secure your hands, consider employing bungee cords to limit their motions when you are unconscious. Again, there is no need to overthink this.
Faraknur
Member
- Dec 15, 2021
- 73
if yku are worried about your hands just make a two slings at a post or bedframe or whatever. then stick ykur hands into them after you put your bag on. you have to be fast but it is possible. make the length so you cant pull the bag of. it would be really hard to pull yourself out if the slings in an SI situation because it is a reflex. you have to put your hands togehter and undo the slings. not really possible without cognitive thinking. or you could tape yourself like the guy with the scuba mask but i would not trust myself with that unless i can hold my breath for at least 3 minutes. you pass out pretty quick with nitrogen like 1 minute tops. depending if you purged yourself of co2 or not, which is recommended. just hyperventilate a but then breath out fully and put the bag on which should be emptied of air and then filled with nitrogen. in that case you will be unconsious in less than a minute so prepare everything for your hands before that. i hope you dont stress too much. death will be quick IF you do it right. if you read the whole post i want to say i love you with all my heart and if there is any doubt i your mind about killing yourself dont do it. you are a wonderful person. but if you decide to do so i wish yku the best. live can be hard and i understand. bless you my love :)
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