Method Exit bag and inert gas megathread

[Intoxicated]

Not often, unless the pulse oximeter is bought on wish or from some unreliable seller

Even well-calibrated devices may have significant biases when measuring SpO2 below 60 - 70%. Cheap OTC pulse oximiters may be especially imprecise at low saturation levels.

https://i.sanctioned-suicide.net/images/2025/04/225337_lipnick2016.pdf

Here a user reported the onset of symptoms when the measured SpO2 dropped to 75%, that looks more realistic.

It's possible to remain semi-conscious for a few seconds having SaO2 levels between 35% and 45% under specific conditions - if you hyperventilate with nitrogen (or other similar asphyxiant), causing very rapid drop of blood oxygen saturation as indicated in Fig.4 here

https://i.sanctioned-suicide.net/images/2025/04/224188_ernsting1963.pdf

This source

https://www.bjanaesthesia.org/article/S0007-0912(17)45696-0/pdf

suggests that "In anoxia induced more gradually, unconsciousness occurs when the arterial haemoglobin oxygen saturation reaches 60-65 per cent with the PaO2 being about 35 mm Hg."

After reaching 50% SaO2 or below in the fast scenario, dimness of vision and clouding of consciousness would likely be imminent and you'd notice them.

You're the one who's full of bullshit

Don't be tricked. He's gaslighting you. Trust your experience. Others have reported similar to you. And we have a report of going unconscious. Ignore the fucking idiot.

Indeed. @Intoxicated is full of bullshit

In order to make such claims / accusations, you have to catch me on systematic rough inaccuracies, with proofs.

25 is when you pass out

Can you demonstrate any trustworthy studies or articles in support of that (besides your garage experiments with an oximiter)?

 

[EmptyBottle]

Even well-calibrated devices may have significant biases when measuring SpO2 below 60 - 70%. Cheap OTC pulse oximiters may be especially imprecise at low saturation levels.

View attachment 164069


Here a user reported the onset of symptoms when the measured SpO2 dropped to 75%, that looks more realistic.

It's possible to remain semi-conscious for a few seconds having SaO2 levels between 35% and 45% under specific conditions - if you hyperventilate with nitrogen (or other similar asphyxiant), causing very rapid drop of blood oxygen saturation as indicated in Fig.4 here

https://i.sanctioned-suicide.net/images/2025/04/224188_ernsting1963.pdf

This source

https://www.bjanaesthesia.org/article/S0007-0912(17)45696-0/pdf

suggests that "In anoxia induced more gradually, unconsciousness occurs when the arterial haemoglobin oxygen saturation reaches 60-65 per cent with the PaO2 being about 35 mm Hg."

After reaching 50% SaO2 or below in the fast scenario, dimness of vision and clouding of consciousness would likely be imminent and you'd notice them.



In order to make such claims / accusations, you have to catch me on systematic rough inaccuracies, with proofs.


Can you demonstrate any trustworthy studies or articles in support of that (besides your garage experiments with an oximiter)?

Ohh yes, uncalibrated equipment *cannot* be guaranteed to be accurate... especially if it is cheap.
I don't understand why someone falsely accused you of being misleading, vs ask deeper questions to clarify the point being made.

 

[Jdieiejdjaow]

Can you demonstrate any trustworthy studies or articles in support of that (besides your garage experiments with an oximiter)?

There are reports from users on this forum? If you want to troll find a different forum. The cheap oxymeters are good enough for the purpose of testing the techniques presented on this forum. You won't be conscious to evaluate your oxygen level when it drops below 25%.

---

Folks, I'm trying to get a rubber hose (needs to be rubber because of my hose cutter that I've already bought, don't want to buy another). I found one titled: "Rubber Gas Butane/Propane LPG Hose Pipe 8mm Internal bore with 2 Clips - Crafted from Premium-Quality Rubber Materials, High Pressure Gas Hose for Caravan, Camping, BBQ. (8mm X 3m)" (see attached picture). Will it work connecting it to the flow meter barb and the double hose barb or I need to get one specifically for argon/nitrogen?

 

[martinso67]

I did test the nitrogen setup with a 200bar regulator suited to the nitrogen cylinder. I am Reaching only 90% of the ideal 200bar, as indicated by the regulator pressure display.
But the problem is its very loud, when I turn on the valve of the gas cylinder fully Is that ok or is there a problem with the connection? Did a leak test, did not do bubbles. Only one small and it went away.

 

[Jdieiejdjaow]

I did test the nitrogen setup with a 200bar regulator suited to the nitrogen cylinder. I am Reaching only 90% of the ideal 200bar, as indicated by the regulator pressure display.
But the problem is its very loud, when I turn on the valve of the gas cylinder fully Is that ok or is there a problem with the connection? Did a leak test, did not do bubbles. Only one small and it went away.

Never turned on the gas despite having had a chance during my first attempt some years ago. Do you've flow reading on your regulator, though?

 

[martinso67]

Yes, i have flowmeter.

Never turned on the gas despite having had a chance during my first attempt some years ago. Do you've flow reading on your regulator, though?

,when I turn on the flow on or off. There is not really a chance in sound.
I found the problem: there is a leak. A did a much intense gas leak test on that gas cylinder- regulator connection and it showed bubbles :(

I did everything correctly, there is no damage on the O ring. I don't know what to do now??

 

[Jdieiejdjaow]

Yes, i have flowmeter.

,when I turn on the flow on or off. There is not really a chance in sound.
I found the problem: there is a leak. A did a much intense gas leak test on that gas cylinder- regulator connection and it showed bubbles :(

I did everything correctly, there is no damage on the O ring. I don't know what to do now??

I see. Have you tighten it well enough with a wrench?

 

[martinso67]

I see. Have you tighten it well enough with a wrench?

Yes till it's firm. I did not use brute force though to not break anything as recommended. Thats why I was shocked to know that there is still a leck.

In all the things or factors I would fail. Only this could fail. I did turn the gas cylinder with the leak problem for 30 seconds.
I am afraid that I lost too much gas to make this method work. Also I saw that regulator should not be able be rotated.

Should I instead go with SN. Like when I failed this, will I fail the other alternative. Will I fail again with SN as well, regardless if I follow the recommended SN protocol?

 

[zardofan]

Yes till it's firm. I did not use brute force though to not break anything as recommended. Thats why I was shocked to know that there is still a leck.

In all the things or factors I would fail. Only this could fail. I did turn the gas cylinder with the leak problem for 30 seconds.
I am afraid that I lost too much gas to make this method work. Also I saw that regulator should not be able be rotated.

Should I instead go with SN. Like when I failed this, will I fail the other alternative. Will I fail again with SN as well, regardless if I follow the recommended SN protocol?

Perhaps try some Teflon tape? It might help it seal better? I used the wrench to make it really tight, this may be the same as what you mean by firm. I cannot loosen it with my fingers and would need the wrench to take it off. You are right re not using extreme force. Maybe as a last ditch effort completely remove and reattach? Is the any chance the threads didn't catch right?

I completely understand where you are coming from re fear of failure. This is why I ditched the allegro hood and went back to the bag, I got freaked out at leaking at the connectors.

Are you in a place where you can get your bottle refilled by a local company?

There are reports from users on this forum? If you want to troll find a different forum. The cheap oxymeters are good enough for the purpose of testing the techniques presented on this forum. You won't be conscious to evaluate your oxygen level when it drops below 25%.

---

Folks, I'm trying to get a rubber hose (needs to be rubber because of my hose cutter that I've already bought, don't want to buy another). I found one titled: "Rubber Gas Butane/Propane LPG Hose Pipe 8mm Internal bore with 2 Clips - Crafted from Premium-Quality Rubber Materials, High Pressure Gas Hose for Caravan, Camping, BBQ. (8mm X 3m)" (see attached picture). Will it work connecting it to the flow meter barb and the double hose barb or I need to get one specifically for argon/nitrogen?

Unsure if you are asking if your hose type needs to be for argon/nitrogen? If that's the question, no it doesn't, anything is fine, in fact you can use just vinyl or silicone tubing if you want, and just cut with scissors. As long as the ID of the hose matches the hose barb (8mm in this case). And I see this hose has clamps too. The regulator/flowmeter being set to ~15lpm is low enough that your hose won't blow apart from the force of the gas. And if I totally misunderstood, my apologies

 

[bored2death]

i gathered everything i thought i needed, including the adapter for a nitrogen tank, but the nitrogen tank i bought has a totally different connection:

Nitrogen | Argon | Helium Valve CGA580 1/2" NGT - Sherwood | Gas Cylinder Source

This nitrogen argon helium valve CGA580 valve outlet with a 1/2" NGT inlet and safety (burst disk) is great for welding and other applications.

gascylindersource.com

i see that the outlet is ".965-14 NGO RH Int." but i'm at a loss as to what converter would allow me to use a din/yoke scuba regulator.

can anyone shed light on this?

 

[zardofan]

i gathered everything i thought i needed, including the adapter for a nitrogen tank, but the nitrogen tank i bought has a totally different connection:

Nitrogen | Argon | Helium Valve CGA580 1/2" NGT - Sherwood | Gas Cylinder Source

This nitrogen argon helium valve CGA580 valve outlet with a 1/2" NGT inlet and safety (burst disk) is great for welding and other applications.

gascylindersource.com

i see that the outlet is ".965-14 NGO RH Int." but i'm at a loss as to what converter would allow me to use a din/yoke scuba regulator.

can anyone shed light on this?

2 thoughts: first, I think you are looking at the thread size versus the type of outlet, and I'm pretty sure what matters is the type (standard CGA 580). Second, what adapter did you get? From the SCBA thread, it looks like there are different ones in different countries depending on your SCBA regulator. Since your tank has a email CGA 580 you need one end of your adapter to be male CGA 580. I see discussion of an adapter in US with a CGA 580 male (goes to tank) to CGA 346 male (goes to SCBA air regulator). But there are other ones discussed as well.

 

[bored2death]

2 thoughts: first, I think you are looking at the thread size versus the type of outlet, and I'm pretty sure what matters is the type (standard CGA 580). Second, what adapter did you get? From the SCBA thread, it looks like there are different ones in different countries depending on your SCBA regulator. Since your tank has a email CGA 580 you need one end of your adapter to be male CGA 580. I see discussion of an adapter in US with a CGA 580 male (goes to tank) to CGA 346 male (goes to SCBA air regulator). But there are other ones discussed as well.

thanks, this is helpful. so the outlet is CGA 580 and i'll need to find some adapter of that to DIN/yoke, or worse, an intermediary then to DIN/yoke.

i got a "Thread adapter compressed air G5 / 8 "internal thread - nitrogen W24 internal thread" which is female to female and obviously for some other kind of tank

 

[bored2death]

thanks, this is helpful. so the outlet is CGA 580 and i'll need to find some adapter of that to DIN/yoke, or worse, an intermediary then to DIN/yoke.

i got a "Thread adapter compressed air G5 / 8 "internal thread - nitrogen W24 internal thread" which is female to female and obviously for some other kind of tank

for anyone wondering, i believe the adapter for this style tank is a G5/8 Male to CGA580 Male

 

[Argonus]

thanks, this is helpful. so the outlet is CGA 580 and i'll need to find some adapter of that to DIN/yoke, or worse, an intermediary then to DIN/yoke.

i got a "Thread adapter compressed air G5 / 8 "internal thread - nitrogen W24 internal thread" which is female to female and obviously for some other kind of tank

The "Thread adapter compressed air G5 / 8 "internal thread - nitrogen W24 internal thread" female to female is what I just received today finally for my Argon tank / SCBA mask setup. The mask G5 / 8 connection fits perfectly and the W24 side also to my Argon cylinder. Going to test tomorrow the mask connected to the cylinder to be sure it fits air tight on my face. Then if there is no leaks, likely Thursday or Friday CTB.

 

[Jdieiejdjaow]

The EEBD arrived. It came with an empty steel bottle and a regulator besides the manual and stuff. Disposed of the bottle at a metal recycling plant.

I have successfully and easily cut the hose with a rubber hose cutter. I measured the inner diameter to be 5mm (compared to 6mm the seller told me prior to purchasing).

Will a hose barb of 6mm work on this hose? It doesn't seem to be a stretchy one one would get with a rubber hose.

Any ideas before I buy the hose and the double sided barb? Should I go with 6mm? Or lower and use a hose clamp (which I'll use no matter what barb size I end up buying). I guess lower would mean leaks. Though, higher and I risk not having the barb fit.

Help!

CC: @locked*n*loaded @devils~advocate

 

[locked*n*loaded]

The EEBD arrived. It came with an empty steel bottle and a regulator besides the manual and stuff. Disposed of the bottle at a metal recycling plant.

I have successfully and easily cut the hose with a rubber hose cutter. I measured the inner diameter to be 5mm (compared to 6mm the seller told me prior to purchasing).

Will a hose barb of 6mm work on this hose? It doesn't seem to be a stretchy one one would get with a rubber hose.

Any ideas before I buy the hose and the double sided barb? Should I go with 6mm? Or lower and use a hose clamp (which I'll use no matter what barb size I end up buying). I guess lower would mean leaks. Though, higher and I risk not having the barb fit.

Help!

CC: @locked*n*loaded @devils~advocate

You should be able to get the hose on that barb. If there's a lot of resistance, which there really shouldn't be for just 1mm difference, put a little liquid dish soap on it.

 

[Jdieiejdjaow]

You should be able to get the hose on that barb. If there's a lot of resistance, which there really shouldn't be for just 1mm difference, put a little liquid dish soap on it.

The liquid dish soap should be alcohol free, right?

 

[locked*n*loaded]

The liquid dish soap should be alcohol free, right?

Why? I've never worried about that when using it as lubricant. It's such a small amount, shouldn't matter.

 

[Jdieiejdjaow]

Why? I've never worried about that when using it as lubricant. It's such a small amount, shouldn't matter.

Thought it's a hazard with N2

 

[locked*n*loaded]

Thought it's a hazard with N2

Alcohol and N2? Even if so, you're only putting a little soap on your finger and rubbing it on the barb. Not enough to matter regardless. But, I've never heard of alcohol being an issue with N2, anyway. If you don't want to use soap, use a little water. Water is also a lubricant. Or wipe the barb with a bar soap. I doubt you'd even need to do anything. You can also put some of your own saliva on the barb.

 

[devils~advocate]

Yes, dish soap would work in helping getting a barb to fit.

You mentioned a dual barb splicer fitting.
You have a regulator and plan on using the barb outlet (?)....then attaching a hose to it.....then attaching the hose to the dual barb.....then that in turn is connected to the EEBD hose (?)
This is very plausible and good solution. I suspect the regulator barb is a larger size than would fit into the EEBD hose.
So the use a dual barb (that has different size ends) and an extra hose, is a good solution to make it all work.

 

[NegevChina]

Thought it's a hazard with N2

N2 is an inert gas, wont react with anything. There is almost 80% of it in the atmosphere already.

 

[SomewhereAlongThe]

I have my N2 tank and everything sorted. I'm worried about a lot of things, the bag coming off while I'm unconscious, the bag becoming too loose at the bottom where the drawstring cord is, gas running out faster than expected even if I have more than enough... my regulator is an argon regulator, if I set it to 17 lpm as was calculated in this thread as the right flow, how much more gas am I losing per minute and how much will I need? How can I reassure myself about the other problems?

 

[mando]

@private nickname

I hope this will be useful to someone. If so, I will describe the further stages of the installation later.

I am certainly interested in the further stages of your installation, I sent you a DM but I guess you can't DM yet

 

[BaharKoChala]

Okay so I've decided to go using the Exit Bag method. The bag is made and all other preparations are done. Only thing is for gas I can only source Helium Tanks (more particularly one named "AiRise Large Portable Helium Tank") which claims it can fill upto 27 18inch ballons. I can get as many of them as needed, how many would I need to ensure safe passage (and obviously with these I can't use a regulator so that has to be kept in mind)

If anyone can help me I would be very grateful!

 

[SomewhereAlongThe]

How long should it take for the bag to inflate?

 

[crunyun]

How long should it take for the bag to inflate?

At a flow rate of 15 liters per minute (LPM), it should take about 40 to 60 seconds.

 

[SomewhereAlongThe]

At a flow rate of 15 liters per minute (LPM), it should take about 40 to 60 seconds.

I have an argon regulator the conversion for it is supposed to be 17lpm, and it takes about 2 mins to fully inflate.
There's also the space where the tube goes in, if I block that off it seems to inflate faster, I tried tightening the drawstring but with the tube air seems to escape more.

 

[crunyun]

I have an argon regulator the conversion for it is supposed to be 17lpm, and it takes about 2 mins to fully inflate.
There's also the space where the tube goes in, if I block that off it seems to inflate faster, I tried tightening the drawstring but with the tube air seems to escape more.

2 minutes? Huh...well, I'm new to this forum, and only recently learned about the exit bag method so i'm definitely no authority on this stuff, but most of my info on it comes from the short book 'Self-Determined Dying: Manual for a Rational Suicide by Helium' by Jessica Duber. In the book, the author states several times that if the bag does not fully inflate within 40 to 60 seconds, or if it does fully inflate BEFORE 40 seconds, with a flow rate of 15lpm, then that means something is off and adjustments must be made. Granted, that book is talking exclusively about using Helium and/or Nitrogen, but still, given the conversion, i'd say something sounds askew but then again idfk, maybe Argon just flows slower? The book also mentions a pressure reducer, which I guess not all regulators include?

 

[devils~advocate]

SCBA, just asking if anyone knows about how to remove hoses from the regulator and reinstall them?
Like the Lung demand valve & pressure gauge hoses.