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Second, while transporting back home via car, as long as theres a secure and tight grip, is it ok to hold the cylinder in your hands as passenger? Or is the "back of footwell, carefully padded" method OP mentioned the only correct way? Third, how long does the process usually take to fill/swap a cylinder?
Secure it a way so it doesn't roll around. Horizontally or vertically does not matter. Just make sure you don't drop it on the head or hit it with a hammer.
Ok thanks, could you kindly pm me the full name or is that it? I'm also a little concerned that if I am able to get it from another country, I'll struggle to find the accessories to fit it. Honestly, I wish I'd bought this stuff instead of pentobarbital when I was on this board years ago, because I think it was easier then.
To those who have actually experienced going to a store to have a tank filled/swapped(in US if it matters), I have a couple questions(Feel free to share your experiences as well). I'll be honest, I overthink things to oblivion, especially if it involves interactions and stretching things I say to not have other party catch on, so I do a weird mental gymnastics prepping in my head what they'll ask and how to respond.
Anyway first, do the clerks always ask what you plan on using the gas for, or do they ask a lot of questions in general? Second, while transporting back home via car, as long as theres a secure and tight grip, is it ok to hold the cylinder in your hands as passenger? Or is the "back of footwell, carefully padded" method OP mentioned the only correct way? Third, how long does the process usually take to fill/swap a cylinder?
They do not. The assumption is that you are a mig/tig welder or somesuch & they are a retail outlet whose job it is to sell product. You will likely find the shop sells the regulator, tubing also. Overthinking is the root of clusterf#$ks. just walk in & tell them what you want. I had a first story of 'welding' & a back up of home-brewing. Those brew shops sell them by mail order. The addresses and details are in the PPeH.
I did a quick search for home brewing in the uk and it looks like they don't have pure nitrogen, only mixed with other inert gases.
Did find several shops for good grade nitrogen. I suggest you check again @DeadHead before trying to import this stuff.
Ok thanks, could you kindly pm me the full name or is that it? I'm also a little concerned that if I am able to get it from another country, I'll struggle to find the accessories to fit it. Honestly, I wish I'd bought this stuff instead of pentobarbital when I was on this board years ago, because I think it was easier then.
So I finally managed to test the purity of my N2 cilinder which should have a quality of 4.6 (->99,996%) according the supplier.
I used the CY-12C (it's mentioned many times and an oxygen meter doesn't kill, so I guess it's allowed) for testing, but it doesn't seem accurate.
I followed the procedure from PPeH two times and the first time it read 0,8% and the second time 0,5%. It also fluctuates heavily when you use the balloon to pump normal air around. I don't have much reason to not trust the source of the N2 because they sell in almost every city in 1-2 stores. So I'm either doing something wrong or the meter doesn't work well. @Das Nichts: how did it work out for you?
I did a quick search for home brewing in the uk and it looks like they don't have pure nitrogen, only mixed with other inert gases.
Did find several shops for good grade nitrogen. I suggest you check again @DeadHead before trying to import this stuff.
Ok and what regulator do I need. Is the flow meter a separate thing to the regulator? The website talks about various types and I have no idea what the difference is. I posted the types of regulators they have in a separate new thread because I thought there'd be more chance of answers there.
Ok and what regulator do I need. Is the flow meter a separate thing to the regulator? The website talks about various types and I have no idea what the difference is. I posted the types of regulators they have in a separate new thread because I thought there'd be more chance of answers there.
You can ask me anything about the "quick solution". It's the idea of gasmonkey and it should be common standard here. To make it more easy & accessible for everyone.
You can ask me anything about the "quick solution". It's the idea of gasmonkey and it should be common standard here. To make it more easy & accessible for everyone.
Very tempted to get this myself since I always prefered exit bag over scba.
Could you post a picture of the inside ? I have a hard time picturing the following;
Pull the hood over the head of the individual to be rescued. Align the
visor of the hood to cover the face and ensure that the front inhalation
port is located at the nose and mouth. To minimise air leakage, grip the
neck cord and with the other hand press the spring loaded toggle, pull
up firmly to close the neck seal around the neck and throat ensuring it
is not too tight and is a close comfortable fit.
SCBA setup with the Drager FPS 7000 mask is on another level.SCUBA setup is also junk but that Neptune III mask is what increases the quality of SCUBA setup and yes,between low-cost SCBA/SCUBA setup and hood setup,I will go with the hood.
@GasMonkey said:
The FPS 7000 is the best mask that I have tried. I have tested 4 different masks (MSA 3S-PS-MAXX, QG Marine (escMode), Dräger Panorama Nova, Dräger FPS 7000) and the FPS 7000 was the best one, with the least exhalation resistance (is a top-notch high-end firefighting mask).
For the regulator the PAS Lite is the best option because is the most light. The PSS 3000/4000/5000/7000 are also valid but they are much more expensive, heavier and with a bunch of extras that will take more work to disassemble. You have to extract the regulator from the backplate to reduce the weight as much as possible since that weight will be hanging from the air-to-nitrogen adapter so it must be as light as possible.
Part number of GasMonkey's FPS7000 mask wss 56200.
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parasite_eve, RavaLion and Readytogohome
Dear members of the Nitrogen Master Race. The time for a dry assembly of my components is upon me & I am hoping for some input from Gas Monkey, Ztem, Anonanon et all.
The regulator came with a screw-on barb fitting, unlike others I have seen this allows the barb to seat within a concave seat. Along with it came an o-ring. Would my colleagues here have a look at the images & chime in if the O-ring is in the correct place to effect a seal belween the regulator & barb. Thanks guys.
Would my colleagues here have a look at the images & chime in if the O-ring is in the correct place to effect a seal belween the regulator & barb. Thanks guys.
So I finally managed to test the purity of my N2 cilinder which should have a quality of 4.6 (->99,996%) according the supplier.
I used the CY-12C (it's mentioned many times and an oxygen meter doesn't kill, so I guess it's allowed) for testing, but it doesn't seem accurate.
I followed the procedure from PPeH two times and the first time it read 0,8% and the second time 0,5%. It also fluctuates heavily when you use the balloon to pump normal air around. I don't have much reason to not trust the source of the N2 because they sell in almost every city in 1-2 stores. So I'm either doing something wrong or the meter doesn't work well. @Das Nichts: how did it work out for you?
The version I have has strangely enough 5%, 25%, 100%. So I calibrated at 25%.
I squeezed the ball pump for maybe 10 times
Waited at least 3 minutes
Calibrated to 21%
Connected the oxygen hose to the flow restrictor on the N2 bottle
Switched to 5%
Opened it and waited a few minutes until the value looked stable
I did also a second test without using nitrogen:
I squeezed the ball pump for maybe 10 times
Waited at least 3 minutes
Calibrated to 21%
Squeezed again like 10 times
Waited again 5 minutes
And now it says 21,7% in the same normal air?!
So it seems that it has to be calibrated after every flow trough the meter.
The biggest problem is the manual which only contains Chinese. So I don't know exactly when to use the pump. I'm considering to order the O2Box from forensics detectors, because this honestly makes me a little bit nervous. I tried yesterday even a third time and then it even didn't go below 1%.
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