I
iamdonewiththis
Member
- Jul 14, 2023
- 18
With the hood is it important to strap hands/body? How much does the body actually move? Enough to tug on the hose and drop the cylinder? Is that the concern?
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The cylinder can be laid down, doesn't have to be standing, its under a lot of pressure no matter what position its in, flow won't be interrupted--Just make sure you have a long enough hoseWith the hood is it important to strap hands/body? How much does the body actually move? Enough to tug on the hose and drop the cylinder? Is that the concern?
Do you have any sources for this? what are you basing this on? So far everything I've seen online says to store the cylinder upright.The cylinder can be laid down, doesn't have to be standing, its under a lot of pressure no matter what position its in, flow won't be interrupted--Just make sure you have a long enough hose
Its not necessary. Your body will naturally move when you becomes unconscious but the movements are very minor - not enough to dislodge the equipment or rip of the bag/hood/mask off your face.With the hood is it important to strap hands/body? How much does the body actually move? Enough to tug on the hose and drop the cylinder? Is that the concern?
Ok, so leave it up, put it in a corner, just reinforce it with lots of cushions or whatever else you need, main thing is to have a long hoseDo you have any sources for this? what are you basing this on? So far everything I've seen online says to store the cylinder upright.
Couple things:I have the complete setup and turned on the nitrogen at 20l/m and after about two minutes the oxygen meter stabilized at about 3%.
I checked all the connections with fluid and didn't see any bubbles/leakes.
Any ideas what's going on?
This is the oxygen meter I used:
Amazon product ASIN B0BGXP6CS8
The one from PPH & PPeH works pretty good coz it measures O2% directly out of the cylinder (less chance for leaks)Anyone has a link to a reliable tested oxygen meter?
PPH/PPeH says Oxygen concentration must be <=2%Also, is 3% oxygen low enough for successful CTB?
What do you mean directly out of the cylinder? How is that useful? I need to 02% in the hood to be <=2%. Also I don't see any mention for O2 meter in PPHThe one from PPH & PPeH works pretty good coz it measures O2% directly out of the cylinder (less chance for leaks)
Because i suspected your nitrogen wasnt pure enough. Now that you said its 99.99, my best guesss is there's a leak somewhere otherwise it would be 0. It could also be you o2 meter but that seems less likelyHow is that useful? I need to 02% in the hood to be <=2%.
its under checking oxygen purity section.Also I don't see any mention for O2 meter in PPH
It has an input, so you can directly connect it to the regulator. PPEH has the model and there is a youtube video available that shows basic usage.What do you mean directly out of the cylinder? How is that useful? I need to 02% in the hood to be <=2%. Also I don't see any mention for O2 meter in PPH
You should use a longer hose if you're going to lie down, the EEBD hood is tightly enclosed around the neck, it will never come off accidentally, and its best to get a 'click' flowmeter that is already attached to the nitrogen regulator--When you turn the tank on, no nitrogen will get to the hood until you turn the click flowmeter to the LPM number you wantVizzy is my hero, thank you so much, wherever you might be now...
After reading so many megathreads now, I guess this is the way to go, the best option (besides N, but... you know...)
But actually, even N seems to have more risks now than this method here. Sadly, I read about a few people, who had issues to find any leaks and couldnt find a solution to get the oxygen below 2%. I guess you have to be very lucky... Getting the cylinder with nitrogen seems to be the most difficult part, since it needs to be at least 2.5 purity.
A few questions... To lower the risk of leaks, I would prefer to stay with the short hose from the hood, but I see, that there might be a risk for the cylinder to fall down, ripping off a hose or something like that. It is also said in one video, that the cylinder should stand so that the flowmeter works properly. Did I get that right?
You want to make sure that your moving buddy doesnt f**k up the process, in case you should move during getting inconscious. Vizzy recommended this chair and wrists to stabilize the body. I would like to CTB while lying, so I wont need the chair and the wrists, right?
Vizzys photos of the test procedure showed the hood being not enclosed. You can see the oxymeter inside the hood, which is open down below. Does that mean, that the effect is strong enough, so you dont have to wrap the open part of the hood? Or is it necessary to also enclose that part by tapes to your own body?
Last question: You get the 15-20 lpm by using the flowmeter, right? I never used one before, so Iam afraid I could mess this up. You turn the valve and the meter tells you if its 20 lpm? I couldn't see it on the photos, but I might be too stupid to use my eyes properly ;D
Thanks again to everyone.
Technically you dont have to prefill the hood but it'll take much longer to lose consciousness & you may feel symptoms of hypoxiaCan you have the hood alreadt pulled down before you switch on the nitrogen please or do you need to put it on your forehead and pull it down?
It's the pulling down that bothers me
Nitrogen Click-style regulator is one type of regulator.Is there a specific name for a "click"-flowmeter or is that actually its name?
Could you please explain me, how to use the regulator Vizzy posted here to get it to 20 lpm? Which display is it? Which valve do I have to turn to get it increased?
View attachment 119975
You are one of the few users that answer my questions and Iam very thankful for that. :) I really appreciate your answer.Nitrogen Click-style regulator is one type of regulator.
Another type is regulator with (floating ball) flowmeter (the one in the pic).
The LPM display is the one on the very left hand side, that's marked vertically from 1-25 LPM.
You first let the gas in from the cylinder. I presume that black knob with on/off on it controls the LPM.
You are one of the few users that answer my questions and Iam very thankful for that. :) I really appreciate your answer.
Just one question: When I let the gas in, I guess that the upper display will be affected, right? Does the needle have to be located in the green marked area between 1400 til 2100? So first the valve at the cylinder, then the knob for the LPM?
Thanks a lot my friend!
Again, thank you a thousand times! That means much to me. :)The other guage measures pressure in bar and pounds per square inch (p.s.i. ). I wouldn't be too worried about that guage.
Just turn the black LPM knob to off/closed. Then turn the cylinder valve to let in the gas. Then adjust/turn the black knob to set the LPM that you want.
Does anyone know if this hood is okay to use for a US setup? I'm worried about the brown marks on it and the size connector. I ordered it from India and am thinking I should send it back. Any thoughts? If it will work, I also need to know what size hose(s) to order. My process still needs more refining and tips are most welcome.
Here's my checklist, so far:
Need:
Have:
- Nitrogen gas cylinder (2 L, 400 compressed L, 40 cubic ft)
- Extension air hose (has to match the hood hose inner and outer diameters)
- Hose ferrule crimping tool (professional connection)
- Hose clamps (caveman way connection)
- 1/4' barb Adapter with matching ferrule
- Water sprayer with soap water (not sure what this is for, but it was recommended)
- Teflon tape (is this to secure the connections? Like plumber's tape? If so, I did order gas thread tape)
- Regulator with flowmeter (CGA 580 & CGA 320)
- Wrist and body straps
- Recliner chair
- Wrench
- EEBD hood (pictured below)
View attachment 120966View attachment 120974View attachment 120967View attachment 120968View attachment 120971View attachment 120969View attachment 120972View attachment 120973
Why didn't you buy Vizzy's hood?Does anyone know if this hood is okay to use for a US setup? I'm worried about the brown marks on it and the size connector. I ordered it from India and am thinking I should send it back.
Hose ferrule crimping tool (professional connection)
What Vizzy did with that was really overkill and that's exactly why people are afraid to modify the hood's hose,you can easily connect two hoses like this, that's what @k1w1 did.(For ease of use, preferably use a hose clamp with butterfly handle.)matching ferrule
You don't need that,that's for the Drager PSS rescue hood or 3M Scott setup in the US(I don't recommend the Drager PSS rescue hood anymore).Teflon tape (is this to secure the connections? Like plumber's tape? If so, I did order gas thread tape)
<---yup, laughs and cries at the same time. So appropriate. I bought the regulator recommended in the PPH and the PSS rescue hood. I'm really just buying what I can find. The easy-to-find Drager hood posts in a US web browser search are over $500 or used (or "refurbished") from India (like the one I shared the pictures of). PMs with advice are welcome.Why didn't you buy Vizzy's hood?
What Vizzy did with that was really overkill and that's exactly why people are afraid to modify the hood's hose,you can easily connect two hoses like this, that's what @k1w1 did.(For ease of use, preferably use a hose clamp with butterfly handle.)
You don't need that,that's for the Drager PSS rescue hood or 3M Scott setup in the US(I don't recommend the Drager PSS rescue hood anymore).
About reg,buy the ACU-200 reg.
I bought the regulator recommended in the PPH and the PSS rescue hood. I'm really just buying what I can find. The easy-to-find Drager hood posts in a US web browser search are over $500 or used (or "refurbished") from India (like the one I shared the pictures of). PMs with advice are welcome.
I'd like to hear if anyone has this EEBD draeger hood