S
Shu8
Member
- Nov 23, 2022
- 12
If you would still like to donate, you still can. We have more than enough funds to cover operating expenses for quite a while, so don't worry about donating if you aren't able. If you want to donate something other than what is listed, you can contact RainAndSadness.
Bitcoin Address (BTC): 39deg9i6Zp1GdrwyKkqZU6rAbsEspvLBJt
Ethereum (ETH): 0xd799aF8E2e5cEd14cdb344e6D6A9f18011B79BE9
Monero (XMR): 49tuJbzxwVPUhhDjzz6H222Kh8baKe6rDEsXgE617DVS
Don't worry about it. Yes, you can use coconut shell charcoal. Just make sure whatever charcoal you're using has a high "purity".Sorry for asking more questions.
Can I use coconut shell charcoal?
Ya lo intenté y fallé jajaja. No me ha pasado absolutamente nada justo ahora que leo esto.Del Traductor de Google:
Solo planeo encender madera y dejar que el carbón permanezca después de que la madera se queme. Y voy a entrar en un pequeño espacio y dejar las brasas encendidas allí.
Esta es la forma en que se hace el carbón común, pero lo hacen en un ambiente sin oxígeno para que la madera no se queme sino que se carbonice. Y tarda mucho tiempo (días) en carbonizarse por completo. Además, determinar la "pureza" del carbón que te queda sería prácticamente imposible. Y, si le importa alcanzar una concentración objetivo en la habitación que usará, debe saber cuánto carbón quedará del trozo de madera con el que comenzará. Personalmente, yo no haría esto, pero si lo has hecho antes o has investigado lo suficiente para saber de lo que estás hablando, entonces adelante.
From Google Translate:Ya lo intenté y fallé jajaja. No me ha pasado absolutamente nada justo ahora que leo esto.
I tried again looking for a smaller space and letting a lot of monoxide build up but I started vomiting and it was horrible. Third time's the charm...thank you anywayFrom Google Translate:
I already tried and failed lol. Absolutely nothing has happened to me right now that I read this.
Sorry to hear that. Hope that following a more tried way will give you the outcome you're looking for. Why not charcoal briquettes or something of that sort?
The old site had complete instructions and recommended Kingsford Charcoal. 6KG seems like alot, wouldn't one need a huge burner for that. I thought the recommendation was for 2KG, but I may be wrong. However, I read an article about Asian charcoal, which is not highly processed. It is a very frequent method used in Asia. There was an article about a woman who took a bowl into bed in her small room who was quite successful. If it didn't work in an enclosed small bathroom, I wonder how it works in a tent, which is so much more open to the environment.Assuming SATP (Standard Ambient Temperature and Pressure), a volume of 45 m^3, a target concentration of 10 000 ppm and a charcoal "purity" of 90% (composition of charcoal is 90% pure carbon), the calculations yield ~6 kg of charcoal.
Aw, sorry to hear that! Remember it is less likely to develop symptoms if you are asleep.I tried again looking for a smaller space and letting a lot of monoxide build up but I started vomiting and it was horrible. Third time's the charm...thank you anyway
I agree. Having a CO meter at hand is preferable (not necessary). If this was still my method of choice, I'd also rather have it than not. It's just that they are very expensive (probably at least as much as all the other equipment needed for the method). I wish it wasn't that way but I don't think there's anything we can do about it. That's what my calculations are for. Instead of running my own experiments, I relied on the ones run by people who had access to a 10 000 ppm CO meter. So it is very important to make sure everything is completely airtight. My hope is the calculations make it so that anyone going with this method worries only about airtightness.For those looking for certainty with the charcoal CO method, a far more reliable way is to acquire a CO meter, if it's within your budget, and do some "test runs" before committing yourself (your health) to your setup. I'd trust that much more than I'd trust any mathematical model for determining whether I reached a comfortable lethal threshold of 10K PPM, since failing at this method can have disastrous consequences. Sure, plenty of people have died with much lesser CO concentration than this, oftentimes unintentionally and in their sleep, but if you want to reach unconsciousness quickly, so as not to suffer the undesirable effects from the CO, the higher you can get the CO level, the better. This is what I'll be doing before going through with my CTB. CO tends to be one of those methods where more is better.
There can't be a set recommended amount since it depends, amongst other things, on the size of the room used. There's no secret formula or special kind of charcoal ("Asian charcoal") to use. It's just a matter of composition. The more pure carbon your charcoal has, the better. And, for painlessness reasons, you also want to avoid as many fillers, binders, and additional chemicals as you can. But also keep in mind that, the closer your charcoal is to 100% pure carbon, the "harder" it will be to light (doing so will take a longer time, and so on). I'd personally never use Kingsford briquettes (see below).The old site had complete instructions and recommended Kingsford Charcoal. 6KG seems like alot, wouldn't one need a huge burner for that. I thought the recommendation was for 2KG, but I may be wrong. However, I read an article about Asian charcoal, which is not highly processed. It is a very frequent method used in Asia. There was an article about a woman who took a bowl into bed in her small room who was quite successful. If it didn't work in an enclosed small bathroom, I wonder how it works in a tent, which is so much more open to the environment.
MY PERSONAL QUESTION IS THIS; I am disabled, though I'd rather not do it at home where there is family, I don't seem to have a choice. I have a large cathedral ceiling bedroom, (a refinished double garage), with a carpeted floor. My idea was to put a small tent inside the room,. I could vent the smoke in an exhaust fan in an open area, then bring the smoking coals inside the tent. Am wondering if the carpet under the tent floor is a danger? Does anyone have any ideas about this. I may look, again after a while, at Asian charcoal if I can find it. Thanks.
Thank you very much PaChO, I did realize problems in this situation. I'm desperate to find some way. Am dying too slowly and painfully of a chronic disease for which there is no treatment or cure and no end date. As a retired nurse, I can't understand why they insist on people persisting in this situation.Aw, sorry to hear that! Remember it is less likely to develop symptoms if you are asleep.
I agree. Having a CO meter at hand is preferable (not necessary). If this was still my method of choice, I'd also rather have it than not. It's just that they are very expensive (probably at least as much as all the other equipment needed for the method). I wish it wasn't that way but I don't think there's anything we can do about it. That's what my calculations are for. Instead of running my own experiments, I relied on the ones run by people who had access to a 10 000 ppm CO meter. So it is very important to make sure everything is completely airtight. My hope is the calculations make it so that anyone going with this method worries only about airtightness.
There can't be a set recommended amount since it depends, amongst other things, on the size of the room used. There's no secret formula or special kind of charcoal ("Asian charcoal") to use. It's just a matter of composition. The more pure carbon your charcoal has, the better. And, for painlessness reasons, you also want to avoid as many fillers, binders, and additional chemicals as you can. But also keep in mind that, the closer your charcoal is to 100% pure carbon, the "harder" it will be to light (doing so will take a longer time, and so on). I'd personally never use Kingsford briquettes (see below).
View attachment 104389
It is very dangerous to do this method when others are so directly involved. I don't know the details of your disability but I'd worry about it stopping you from being safe if, say, a fire occurs. A carpeted floor is a big "no". If you really have no choice, do your best to fireproof everything as good as possible. Please reconsider if this method fits your particular situation, really think things through. Be safe with whatever you choose.
what's charcoal did you use?In the end, I did cover the window from the outside.
View attachment 103338
This is the door frame.
View attachment 103339
View attachment 103340
These are the sink, faucet, and keyhole.
View attachment 103341
View attachment 103342
Assuming a pressure of 100 000 Pa, a volume of 8 m^3, a temperature of 285.65 K (12.5 °C; 54.5 °F), a target concentration of 12 800 ppm, and a charcoal "purity" of 90%, the calculations yield ~2 kg of charcoal. I think I'll use a little more, if the size of the chimneys allows it.
what does it meant by high purity charcoal?Don't worry about it. Yes, you can use coconut shell charcoal. Just make sure whatever charcoal you're using has a high "purity".
What's that smell? Charcoal, naw that's my brain after reading this... I'm totally horrible with math... Fuck.I don't know how to edit the first message of the thread so I'll just post this one. I figured I would make the whole thing easier to understand for the layperson (I'm no scientist myself) by putting the calculations in very simple terms. Here it is:
X1 = volume (m^3) x 1.129 910 670
X2 = X1 x 0.01
X3 = X2 x 0.428 796 858
X4 = X3 x 1.111 111 111
X5 = X4 x 25.215 270 353
This result, X5 (kg of charcoal), will assume SATP (Standard Ambient Temperature and Pressure), a target concentration of 10 000 ppm and a charcoal "purity" of 90% (composition of charcoal is 90% pure carbon). I removed the units for added simplicity. I hope this is doable.
An even easier way to get X5, still with the restrictions mentioned above, is to do the following:
X5 = volume (m^3) x 0.135 742 806
What's your method now?If this was still my method of choice
Can you give me the link to a good CO meter. I have no idea what to look for on Amazon. I found one but then it didn't list CO on itFor those looking for certainty with the charcoal CO method, a far more reliable way is to acquire a CO meter, if it's within your budget, and do some "test runs" before committing yourself (your health) to your setup. I'd trust that much more than I'd trust any mathematical model for determining whether I reached a comfortable lethal threshold of 10K PPM, since failing at this method can have disastrous consequences. Sure, plenty of people have died with much lesser CO concentration than this, oftentimes unintentionally and in their sleep, but if you want to reach unconsciousness quickly, so as not to suffer the undesirable effects from the CO, the higher you can get the CO level, the better. This is what I'll be doing before going through with my CTB. CO tends to be one of those methods where more is better.
amazon will most likely only list meters that measure up to 1000ppm (one thousand).Can you give me the link to a good CO meter. I have no idea what to look for on Amazon. I found one but then it didn't list CO on it![]()
Thank you. Do I have to calibrate the damn thing. I cannot do anything complicated. I am having some issues with brain damage and I have trouble understanding things that are complicated.amazon will most likely only list meters that measure up to 1000ppm (one thousand).
you need one that will measure up to 10,000ppm (ten thousand), like this one: